THE ONES TO WATCH
As a fashion director , one of the most exciting things is discovering fresh talent—(designers) who bring innovative ideas and aren’t constrained by the traditional rules of fashion. Emerging designers often have a more liberated approach to their craft, and I had the privilege of judging some of the most promising talents of 2024. After an in-depth review, I have selected four outstanding winners.
Each of these designers brings something unique to the table, with a strong and distinctive vision that I believe will make them the next big names in fashion. Every one of them comes from a different background, adding to the richness of their work. Julia Muller
Quine Li Kuai Li
Quine Li Kuai Li is a Chinese-born fashion designer whose fashion work centers on sculptural aesthetics underpinned by her industrial design background. Kuai treats fashion with an industrial design approach, her work bends physics, often using tech, performance, and traditional furniture materials to explore architectural forms on the body. Her designs blur the boundaries between fashion and art, offering a unique perspective that challenges traditional garment-making techniques. Personally, I love her innovative use of form, shapes, and intriguing materials, which bring a fresh and captivating dynamic to her designs.
Kim Mesches
Kim Mesches is a New York City-based designer and graduate of the Fashion Institute of Technology. As a multidisciplinary creator with a background in fashion, art, and creative direction, his work seamlessly blends these influences. His process juxtaposes ethereal, organic fluidity with the layering of color and texture, creating an ongoing exploration of tension and harmony. His use of fluid cast resin sculptures, appearing frozen in time, highlights his innovative material choices. What I find most impressive is his fearless experimentation with unconventional materials, transforming fashion into a dynamic intellectual exploration of structure and movement.
House of Rubber
Marlous Breuls, a Dutch-born designer and founder of the multidisciplinary studio House of Rubber, is renowned for pushing the boundaries of artistic expression. Her vision blends fashion, objects, and interactive art, challenging perceptions and sparking dialogue that captivates audiences. Driven by experimentation and craftsmanship, Breuls explores femininity, relationships, and introspection with humor. Her work humanizes materials, transforming the human form into a dynamic canvas. Known for their physicality, softness, and fantastical textures, her creations offer a captivating sensory experience. What I find most inspiring about Breuls is her ability to transform highly technical materials into fluid, organic forms, seamlessly blending innovation with artistic expression.
Dino Alves
Dino Alves, known as the "master of cuts," creates made-to-measure fashion that blends seamlessly with the body, creating a second skin. Since his first show at "Manobras de Maio" in 1994, Dino has regularly presented his collections at ModaLisboa – Lisbon Fashion Week, captivating audiences with his originality.
In my opinion Dino is Portugal's most provocative designer, Dino's shows are unforgettable. His limitless imagination and playful approach to clothes and images make each collection a unique experience. His work consistently pushes the boundaries of fashion in exciting ways.
